The History of the Rolex GMT-Master
The Rolex GMT-Master was introduced in the mid-1950s, developed in collaboration with Pan American World Airways, commonly known as Pan Am, to meet the needs of its pilots. The challenge was to create a watch that could track multiple time zones simultaneously—an essential tool for pilots making long-haul transatlantic flights, which were becoming more common at that time.
The GMT-Master was first released in 1954 with reference 6542, known as the "pilot's watch." However, it was with the release of the Rolex GMT-Master 1675 in 1959 that this model truly became iconic. The 1675 was produced for over 20 years, becoming a symbol of the Jet Set era. This watch was worn by famous figures such as Clint Eastwood and Che Guevara, further cementing its legendary status.
The GMT-Master 1675 is instantly recognizable thanks to its two-tone rotating bezel, which allows the wearer to track a second time zone. Combined with the robust Oyster case, this made the GMT-Master a rugged companion for the world traveler during an era when international travel was rapidly expanding.
The Technical Features of the Rolex GMT-Master 1675
Technically, the Rolex GMT-Master 1675 is a masterpiece of simplicity and functionality. It is equipped with an additional hand that allows the wearer to track a second time zone. This 24-hour hand makes one full rotation every 24 hours, allowing you to simultaneously read the local time and the time in another part of the world. The bi-directional rotating bezel, marked with 24 hours, enables quick adjustments for a third time zone if needed.
The first movement in the GMT-Master 1675 was the calibre 1565, an automatic movement known for its precision and reliability, which featured a date function at 3 o’clock. In 1965, it was replaced by the calibre 1575, which offered enhanced shock resistance and a faster balance wheel. With a frequency of 19,800 beats per hour, the calibre 1575 improved both accuracy and durability. The 1675 also featured the famous Triplock screw-down crown, which provided water resistance up to 50 meters (later improved to 100 meters in more modern iterations).
The Different Versions of the Rolex GMT-Master 1675
Over its long production run, the Rolex GMT-Master 1675 saw numerous variations, making it a fascinating watch for collectors. The earliest versions featured a "gilt" dial, where the text was printed in gold and coated with a glossy black lacquer. These early gilt dials are highly sought after today for their rarity and vintage charm.
By the mid-1960s, Rolex introduced matte dials with white printing, which became the standard. These dials offered greater legibility and a more modern look. Throughout the years, minor details changed, such as the shape of the crown guards. Early references of the 1675 had smaller, pointed crown guards, while later models adopted more robust crown guards, improving the watch’s durability.
Bracelets also evolved over time. While the earliest GMT-Masters were often fitted with the robust Oyster bracelet, the Jubilee bracelet later became a popular option, especially for two-tone models, adding a touch of elegance to the sporty aesthetic.
The Iconic Nicknames and Inserts of the Rolex GMT-Master 1675
One of the most captivating aspects of the Rolex GMT-Master is the variety of bezel inserts, many of which have earned affectionate nicknames within the watch community. The most famous is the "Pepsi" bezel, featuring red for daytime hours and blue for nighttime hours. This iconic combination was chosen to match Pan Am’s colors, symbolizing global travel.
In addition to the "Pepsi" insert, there are other variations that have their own unique charm. The "Root Beer" insert, for example, features a brown and gold color scheme, often found on gold or two-tone GMT-Master models. The nickname "Root Beer" comes from the similarity to the popular American soda, and this version is also known as the "Clint Eastwood" GMT, in honor of the actor who wore this model both on and off screen.
The "All-Black" version, with its solid black bezel, offers a more understated and subtle look, appealing to those who prefer a more discreet aesthetic. Finally, the elusive "Blueberry" version, featuring an all-blue bezel, is highly coveted by collectors, although its authenticity on certain models remains a topic of debate within the community.
Conclusion
The Rolex GMT-Master 1675 is not just a watch; it’s a true horological icon. Its ability to track multiple time zones, its distinctive two-tone bezel, and its rich history make it a must-have for vintage watch enthusiasts and collectors alike. Whether you prefer the classic "Pepsi" bezel, the refined "Root Beer," or even the rare "Blueberry," each variation of the 1675 tells a unique story of travel and adventure.
At Wristshot Social Club, we celebrate watches that, like the GMT-Master 1675, transcend trends and become timeless symbols of style and functionality. With a watch like this on your wrist, you're not only wearing a masterpiece of engineering but also carrying a piece of history.